Retrofit windows vinyl siding

If the channel sticks out past the widow, you will want to install a wood frame made of 2x4s around the window to build it out. Begin by installing housewrap and a drip cap at the top of the window.

Frame the window with 2x4s, tapering the bottom edge to ensure any collected water can drain away from the window. Measure the width and height of the 2x4 frame, then cut pieces of coil to the following lengths:. To bend the coil, measure the inside, face, and outside of the wood frame. Use an aluminum coil brake to bend the coil to match the shape of the wood frame. Your first bend will be the inside measurement, the second bend will be the face measurement, and your third bend will be the outside measurement.

Now that you have four pieces of bent coil, you must make some cuts using snips to ensure they will fit together appropriately at the corners. You will need notched corners on both ends of the bottom cap, as well as the tops of the side caps.

Make mitered edges on the four remaining corners: the two edges on the top cap, and the two bottom edges on the side caps. Start by laying the bottom cap flush against the edge of the wood frame. Mark the inside of the window, and one inch past that mark. Cut all the way to the first mark and remove the extra material, then cut to the second mark, then bend to create a tab.

Repeat for the other required notched corners. Lay the cap against the window frame. Mark the inside corner of the window, then draw a 45 degree angle. Leave a one inch tab at the bottom, and cut away the remaining material. Place the cap on the window, then fold the tab downward. Repeat for the other required mitered corners. Whether you decided to build out and cap the window or not, the steps for installing j-channel around a window are the same.

Measure the width and height of the full window, then cut pieces of j-channel to the following lengths:. You will need to create notched corners on both ends of the bottom j-channel, and at the tops of the side j-channel. You will need mitered corners on the four remaining ends the two edges on the top j-channel, and the two bottom edges on the side j-channels.

For notched corners, remove material equal to the width of the j-channel face. The addition of OSB was made as a cost-cutting measure. But the best T1 — 11 siding is still made of softwood plywood. OSB is much more susceptible water soaking in and swelling the sheet, especially at the edges. A window is installed on a stud wall with or without sheathing before the building wrap is in place.

It is then attached using the nailing fin and integrated with the building wrap using flashing tape. You should put sheeting and house wrap under the T1 — 11 siding, just like with any other siding. Replacing windows when the weather is warm but not too warm, say in late spring or early summer, has several benefits.

The level of skills needed to replace your own windows can vary, depending on the replacement project type. An insert replacement window allows you to keep the existing window frame and trim, whereas a full-frame replacement window requires a complete tear-out and replacement of the existing one.

T1 — 11 siding is a very durable siding material and can last for more than 20 years if it is properly installed, regularly maintained, sealed with quality paint or stain, and protected from water and mold damage. Trim the siding with one-by-four-inch wooden trim, covering the gaps around windows and doors, under the soffit and on the corners of the house.

Nail the trim with two-inch galvanized nails, then caulk around it with acrylic latex caulk. Secure the center of the T1 — 11 siding to its wall stud.